WIRED | 4/24/2019 | Adrienne So
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No one ever wants to know about the secret lives of tax preparers, or bank branch managers. But since the journeys of Anthony Bourdain, everyone wants to learn the secrets, and wield the tools, of commercial cookery. Who wouldn’t want to be a swaggering night pirate that can also bake a perfect pie?

The $599 Gozney Roccbox is one of those tools that looks great on paper. I’ve met pizza chefs who use the Roccbox for commercial purposes, and they love it. The Roccbox is an imposing 45 pounds of smooth steel, silicone, and stone that heats up to 900+ degrees. It retains that heat well enough to bake pizza after pizza, at less than two minutes a pie.

Things - Roccbox - Backyard - Pizza - Chef

While I like many things about the Roccbox, it’s too much for a backyard pizza chef. Does anyone really need to cook 30 pizzas in an hour? Probably not. It’s just too expensive and heavy—I put closed-toe shoes on every time I have to move it.

Trying to use the optional wood hopper to make it a wood-fired oven is also an incredibly difficult task. If you must have a wood-fired pizza oven, I recommend the Ooni Pro instead.

Fact - Roccbox - Sisyphus - Stone - Features

If you can overlook the fact that the Roccbox is heavier than Sisyphus’s stone, it has a few delightful features that make it particularly easy to set up as a propane oven. First, the oven’s stone baking surface is secured on the oven floor. I don’t have to remove a charred, loose stone in order to move it, or worry about it slipping out of the oven and breaking.

Second, it comes with a padded handle. Just Velcro the wide strap around the oven’s body and haul it from your living room. And finally, the wood and gas attachments don’t require complicated assembly. Both use a simple,...
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